Modica
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 30 December 2023
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The town of Modica lies 268 kilometres south-east of Palermo, the regional capital of Sicily and has a population of around 55,000 inhabitants. It's one of the eight Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto (South-Eastern Sicily) inscribed since 2002 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
However, despite Modica's considerable architectural merits, it's best known as a centre of chocolate production. Modica chocolate follows an ancient process which was first brought to the town by the ruling Spaniards who had themselves used an old Aztec recipe. |
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Upper and lower Modica
Whether it's the brilliance of the architecture or the taste of the chocolate that draws you into Modica, you won't be disappointed. The best way to understand the layout of the town is to make your way up to the Belvedere (panoramic viewpoint) which is situated to the west of the town along the road to Ragusa. The incredible view you can enjoy from here is one of the best things about Modica and it allows you to pick out all of the sights at a glance before you explore more closely from ground level.
The town is split into upper and lower sections with Modica Alta (Upper Modica) separated from Modica Bassa (Lower Modica) by the main thoroughfare of Corso Umberto I. The wide, main boulevard with its grand, balconied palazzi on either side was once a river but it flooded in 1902, causing huge devastation to the town. After the flood, the river was concreted over and turned into the road we see today.
The town is split into upper and lower sections with Modica Alta (Upper Modica) separated from Modica Bassa (Lower Modica) by the main thoroughfare of Corso Umberto I. The wide, main boulevard with its grand, balconied palazzi on either side was once a river but it flooded in 1902, causing huge devastation to the town. After the flood, the river was concreted over and turned into the road we see today.
Baroque masterpieces
Remaining in our envious position overlooking the town from the main road above it, the sight of the tightly-clustered houses is quite magnificent and merits some extended study. Eventually your eyes alight on the start at the centre of the scene, the Duomo di San Giorgio, Modica's cathedral and one of the principal buildings which earned it its UNESCO listing. The Duomo lies not on the main street, but on the next main parallel street above it in Modica Alta: Corso San Giorgio. It's possible to drive all the way to the Duomo but the easiest place to park in town is along Corso Umberto I down below; from there you can explore the narrow streets on foot before reaching the cathedral.
There are three magnificent churches in Modica, any of which would grace most towns as their cathedral. The second of those churches is further up the hill in Modica Alta: the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista. If you've made your way on foot to the Duomo first, then the effort to reach this second church might tax you a little bit as it's another climb of about 15 minutes or so. It gets easier from here though and just a short walk (down this time) from the church is another panoramic viewpoint called the Pizzo Belvedere from which you can get some great photos of the town's layout from a different perspective.
There are three magnificent churches in Modica, any of which would grace most towns as their cathedral. The second of those churches is further up the hill in Modica Alta: the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista. If you've made your way on foot to the Duomo first, then the effort to reach this second church might tax you a little bit as it's another climb of about 15 minutes or so. It gets easier from here though and just a short walk (down this time) from the church is another panoramic viewpoint called the Pizzo Belvedere from which you can get some great photos of the town's layout from a different perspective.
The Chocolate Museum
The third of the really famous churches in Modica is the Basilica di San Pietro which is back down at street level on Corso Umberto I. You would be forgiven for any confusion if you thought you'd seen this church already as not only does it share the same Baroque refinements as the other two, it also lies at the top of a monumental staircase.
If you prefer your culture to come in the form of food, and sweet food at that, then you can cross the road from the Basilica and go all Willy Wonka in Modica's Chocolate Museum. If images of Tim Burton's lavish 2005 production are coming into your head, erase them as it's rather more understated than that but very interesting nonetheless. You can of course try some of the chocolate there or from any number of shops along the main street offering a mouth-watering variety of ways to consume it, be they chocolate bars or ice creams.
Modica is one of the main towns in the Province of Ragusa and from here it's just a 20 minute drive to the provincial capital of Ragusa, one of the finest cities in Italy. It belongs on the same list of UNESCO towns as Modica and has its own upper and lower towns. The lower town called Ibla is the pick of the two and you can enjoy similarly magnificent views to those of Modica from the approach road. Slightly closer to Modica, a 15 minute drive west of the town brings you to the fascinating Cava d'Ispica archaeological site.
If you prefer your culture to come in the form of food, and sweet food at that, then you can cross the road from the Basilica and go all Willy Wonka in Modica's Chocolate Museum. If images of Tim Burton's lavish 2005 production are coming into your head, erase them as it's rather more understated than that but very interesting nonetheless. You can of course try some of the chocolate there or from any number of shops along the main street offering a mouth-watering variety of ways to consume it, be they chocolate bars or ice creams.
Modica is one of the main towns in the Province of Ragusa and from here it's just a 20 minute drive to the provincial capital of Ragusa, one of the finest cities in Italy. It belongs on the same list of UNESCO towns as Modica and has its own upper and lower towns. The lower town called Ibla is the pick of the two and you can enjoy similarly magnificent views to those of Modica from the approach road. Slightly closer to Modica, a 15 minute drive west of the town brings you to the fascinating Cava d'Ispica archaeological site.
Inspector Montalbano and the surrounding area
The fame of the area around Modica has increased in recent years as it's the setting for a number of scenes from the Inspector Montalbano TV series. The nearby town of Scicli features regularly in the show along with the beach resort of Punta Secca which doubles up as the inspector's home. A visit to the area wouldn't be complete without checking-out the beautiful Donnafugata Castle, itself the star of many a TV show and films including Tale of Tales (2015).
To really make the most out of the area then a rental car is recommended but there are public transport options available as well. Modica's train station is situated a kilometre to the south of the town and from there you can catch a train to Ragusa with a journey time of just over 20 minutes. The same train continues to two more historic towns: Comiso, followed by Vittoria. The local train routes are something of a source of local pride and represent a significant engineering feat, having had to overcome a series of topographical hurdles. British actor Bill Nighy recently narrated a TV show on this very subject, showing how you can take the scenic railway as far north as Mount Etna.
To really make the most out of the area then a rental car is recommended but there are public transport options available as well. Modica's train station is situated a kilometre to the south of the town and from there you can catch a train to Ragusa with a journey time of just over 20 minutes. The same train continues to two more historic towns: Comiso, followed by Vittoria. The local train routes are something of a source of local pride and represent a significant engineering feat, having had to overcome a series of topographical hurdles. British actor Bill Nighy recently narrated a TV show on this very subject, showing how you can take the scenic railway as far north as Mount Etna.
Comune di Modica
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Province: Ragusa
Region: Sicily Population: 53,554 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2023) Size: 291 km² Elevation: 296 metres Highlights: Duomo di San Giorgio, Chocolate Museum, views Close by: Calamosche Beach, Fontane Bianche, Syracuse, Pozzallo Recommended accommodation: Oro Hotel |
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto (South-Eastern Sicily)
Year: 2002
Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto (South-Eastern Sicily)
Year: 2002
