Bergamo
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 17 September 2023
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The city of Bergamo is the capital city of the Province of Bergamo with a population of 121,200 inhabitants.
Standing at an elevation of 485 metres above sea level, it covers a total area of 40 km² and lies 60 kilometres north east of Milan, the regional capital of Lombardy. Bergamo is laid out in such a way that it's necessary to describe it as two places: there's Bergamo Alta, the medieval town that sits on a hill overlooking the lower town: Bergamo Bassa. |
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Reaching Bergamo Alta
It is Bergamo Alta that attracts the most visitors; characterised by its tight web of medieval streets, it's also home to one of the most attractive squares in Italy and the city's two main religious buildings: Bergamo Cathedral and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Piazza Vecchia has been commented on by 19th century French writer Stendhal who dubbed it "the most beautiful square on earth", high praise indeed. The piazza marks the centre of Bergamo Alta and the area around which most of its main sights are congregated.
Taking a step back, one first has to get to Bergamo Alta and this is best achieved by using the city's funicular railway. Starting from the funicular station on Via Vittorio Emanuele II in Bergamo Bassa, it takes just 3 minutes to reach the main station in Bergamo Alta. On arrival you step out into Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe (Shoe Market Square), and from there follow the main artery of Via Gombito, walking up a slight gradient.
Via Gombito is a beautiful street, full of interesting shops and places to eat. Half way up the street you reach the Torre del Gombito; a 52 metre tall medieval tower that affords wonderful views over the rest of the town. Before climbing the tower, just bear in mind that it does have rather a lot of steps and there are further towers with greater vantage points awaiting you just a short walk away.
It is Bergamo Alta that attracts the most visitors; characterised by its tight web of medieval streets, it's also home to one of the most attractive squares in Italy and the city's two main religious buildings: Bergamo Cathedral and the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore.
Piazza Vecchia has been commented on by 19th century French writer Stendhal who dubbed it "the most beautiful square on earth", high praise indeed. The piazza marks the centre of Bergamo Alta and the area around which most of its main sights are congregated.
Taking a step back, one first has to get to Bergamo Alta and this is best achieved by using the city's funicular railway. Starting from the funicular station on Via Vittorio Emanuele II in Bergamo Bassa, it takes just 3 minutes to reach the main station in Bergamo Alta. On arrival you step out into Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe (Shoe Market Square), and from there follow the main artery of Via Gombito, walking up a slight gradient.
Via Gombito is a beautiful street, full of interesting shops and places to eat. Half way up the street you reach the Torre del Gombito; a 52 metre tall medieval tower that affords wonderful views over the rest of the town. Before climbing the tower, just bear in mind that it does have rather a lot of steps and there are further towers with greater vantage points awaiting you just a short walk away.
Piazza Vecchia
Shortly after you pass the Torre del Gombito you find yourself in Piazza Vecchia. The beautiful piazza is enclosed by famous buildings such as the Palazzo della Ragione, the Palazzo del Podestà and the Palazzo Nuovo. The Palazzo Nuovo is the mainly white building at one end and directly opposite it, across the square is the Palazzo della Ragione. When you pass under the Palazzo della Ragione you're in a smaller square called Piazza Duomo which has an entrance on the left to Bergamo Cathedral, or directly ahead to the Cappella Colleoni.
At this point it's not unusual to be a bit confused as there are four important religious buildings right in front of you. The Cappella Colleoni was a later addition to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore; its intricate facade slightly masking that of the larger Basilica behind it.
Hard as it is to believe, the main gate to the chapel carries the Colleoni coat of arms which boldly incorporates three testicles (yes, you read that right). It is said that if one rubs the third testicle it will bring you luck; if in any doubt as to which one is the third, just look for the shiniest, i.e. most rubbed one. To the right of the Cappella Colleoni is the Bergamo Baptistery which is usually closed, while to the left lies Bergamo Cathedral.
Shortly after you pass the Torre del Gombito you find yourself in Piazza Vecchia. The beautiful piazza is enclosed by famous buildings such as the Palazzo della Ragione, the Palazzo del Podestà and the Palazzo Nuovo. The Palazzo Nuovo is the mainly white building at one end and directly opposite it, across the square is the Palazzo della Ragione. When you pass under the Palazzo della Ragione you're in a smaller square called Piazza Duomo which has an entrance on the left to Bergamo Cathedral, or directly ahead to the Cappella Colleoni.
At this point it's not unusual to be a bit confused as there are four important religious buildings right in front of you. The Cappella Colleoni was a later addition to the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore; its intricate facade slightly masking that of the larger Basilica behind it.
Hard as it is to believe, the main gate to the chapel carries the Colleoni coat of arms which boldly incorporates three testicles (yes, you read that right). It is said that if one rubs the third testicle it will bring you luck; if in any doubt as to which one is the third, just look for the shiniest, i.e. most rubbed one. To the right of the Cappella Colleoni is the Bergamo Baptistery which is usually closed, while to the left lies Bergamo Cathedral.
The Campanone and Museo Donizettiano
So having visited the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, the Cappella Colleoni, the Cathedral and most likely rubbed a shiny testicle, you should be feeling lucky or confident enough to tackle the previously-alluded-to tower. The Campanone ("Big Bell Tower") is also referred to as Torre Civica. You do have to pay to enter, but the cost can be offset by the fact there's a nice lift to take you to the top and also, that the ticket for the tower will also allow you access to several museums close by, including the Museo Donizettiano.
The views from the top of the tower are magnificent but make sure you leave before 10 pm as that's when the bell rings 100 times; a tradition harking back to the days when the city gates would be closed at that time.
Returning to Piazza Vecchia, if you turn left towards the white, Palazzo Nuovo, and then take a left you'll be on Via Colleoni. This is another attractive street with shops and places to eat, and following it to the end you reach another pretty square: Piazza Mascheroni. Walk under the clock tower here and you'll find yourself in Piazza della Cittadella, on the other side of which you can get some more great views of the city.
So having visited the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, the Cappella Colleoni, the Cathedral and most likely rubbed a shiny testicle, you should be feeling lucky or confident enough to tackle the previously-alluded-to tower. The Campanone ("Big Bell Tower") is also referred to as Torre Civica. You do have to pay to enter, but the cost can be offset by the fact there's a nice lift to take you to the top and also, that the ticket for the tower will also allow you access to several museums close by, including the Museo Donizettiano.
The views from the top of the tower are magnificent but make sure you leave before 10 pm as that's when the bell rings 100 times; a tradition harking back to the days when the city gates would be closed at that time.
Returning to Piazza Vecchia, if you turn left towards the white, Palazzo Nuovo, and then take a left you'll be on Via Colleoni. This is another attractive street with shops and places to eat, and following it to the end you reach another pretty square: Piazza Mascheroni. Walk under the clock tower here and you'll find yourself in Piazza della Cittadella, on the other side of which you can get some more great views of the city.
Colle Aperto
To complete the very best of Bergamo Alta it's necessary to hop on the funicular again at the station just beyond Piazza della Cittadella, in an area known as Colle Aperto. The funicular takes 3 minutes to reach San Vigilio where you'll find a castle surrounded by a park as well as places to eat and drink.
To complete the very best of Bergamo Alta it's necessary to hop on the funicular again at the station just beyond Piazza della Cittadella, in an area known as Colle Aperto. The funicular takes 3 minutes to reach San Vigilio where you'll find a castle surrounded by a park as well as places to eat and drink.
Bergamo Bassa
For most people, the above itinerary will take up most of the day and most of one's energy but if time and energy allow, you can make your way back to the original funicular station (either by walking or by a combination of funicular, bus and walking) to explore Bergamo Bassa.
There's a very different feel between Bergamo Alta and Bergamo Bassa; the narrow medieval walkways of the Città Alta give way to the Città Bassa's wide, modern walkways.
To get a flavour of life in the lower town, you can take a stroll along the Sentierone (The Big Path), a tree-lined boulevard where locals like to take their evening passeggiata. Starting from the Chiesa dei Santi Bartolomeo e Stefano, it's just a short walk along the Sentierone to Piazza della Libertà and just a little further still to the Porta Nuova.
For most people, the above itinerary will take up most of the day and most of one's energy but if time and energy allow, you can make your way back to the original funicular station (either by walking or by a combination of funicular, bus and walking) to explore Bergamo Bassa.
There's a very different feel between Bergamo Alta and Bergamo Bassa; the narrow medieval walkways of the Città Alta give way to the Città Bassa's wide, modern walkways.
To get a flavour of life in the lower town, you can take a stroll along the Sentierone (The Big Path), a tree-lined boulevard where locals like to take their evening passeggiata. Starting from the Chiesa dei Santi Bartolomeo e Stefano, it's just a short walk along the Sentierone to Piazza della Libertà and just a little further still to the Porta Nuova.
Comune di Bergamo
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Province: Bergamo
Region: Lombardy Population: 119,476 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2023) Total size: 40 km² Elevation: 249 metres Top sights: Piazza Vecchia, Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore Recommended accommodation: Le Funi Hotel Close by: Lake Iseo, San Pellegrino Terme, San Giovanni Bianco |
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Venetian Works of Defence Between the 16th and 17th Centuries: Stato da Terra - Western Stato da Mar
Year: 2017
Venetian Works of Defence Between the 16th and 17th Centuries: Stato da Terra - Western Stato da Mar
Year: 2017
Bergamo Travel
The main train station in Bergamo is situated in Bergamo Bassa, 600 metres from Piazza della Libertà, a walk of 8 minutes. It's also possible to take a 1, 7 or 8 bus to cover some of the distance. You can take a train from Bergamo to Milano Centrale with a journey time of 48 minutes, or heading north, you can reach Lecco on Lake Como in 40 minutes.
There's no doubting the most convenient airport for Bergamo; it has its own just outside the city in Orio al Serio called Milan Bergamo Airport which is just 6 kilometres away, an 11 minute drive. Lombardy's two other airports: Milan Linate Airport (37 mins, 50 km) and Milan Malpensa Airport (1 hour 1 min, 91 km) are also realistic alternatives.
There's no doubting the most convenient airport for Bergamo; it has its own just outside the city in Orio al Serio called Milan Bergamo Airport which is just 6 kilometres away, an 11 minute drive. Lombardy's two other airports: Milan Linate Airport (37 mins, 50 km) and Milan Malpensa Airport (1 hour 1 min, 91 km) are also realistic alternatives.
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Fly to: Milan Bergamo Airport - 11 minutes by car (6 km)
By train: Lecco - 40 minutes, Milan - 48 minutes |
