Civita di Bagnoregio
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 26 September 2023
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The village of Cività di Bagnoregio is situated within the Viterbo Province of Lazio, a frazione of the Bagnoregio comune.
Listed as one of the "Borghi Più Belli d'Italia" (Italy's most beautiful villages), it stands at an elevation of 485 metres above sea level. The village is reached via a bridge called the Ponte Panoramico and its main sights include the Giardino del Poeta. |
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The Borghi Più Belli d'Italia association add a little headline to each of the 300 or so villages that they include in their list. In the case of Cività di Bagnoregio, that headline is "La Città che Muore": The City that Dies or more accurately, The City That's Dying. This is no whimsical or romantic metaphor: the mixture of clay and tuff rock that form the base of the village, are gradually eroding.
There are as few as 10 to 15 official residents in Cività di Bagnoregio at the moment and it's difficult to imagine that those numbers will ever increase. The Ponte Panoramico bridge was only built in 1995 and before that, the village was extremely difficult to access, save for a tunnel called the Bucaione (Big Hole) which dates back to Etruscan times and provides access to the surrounding valley. The bridge has made life much easier but still the problem remains of the erosion which chips away a little more with each passing year.
This is one of the most unique locations in Italy and really worth the trouble to visit; especially as we don't know how much longer the village can survive. Cività is a frazione (hamlet or small village) of the Bagnoregio comune and you have to pass through the larger town in order to reach it. Bagnoregio is a completely different proposition: a typical town of the Lazio region with some historical buildings but largely unremarkable compared to its famous frazione.
Like so many towns and villages in the province of Viterbo, Cività di Bagnoregio has its origins in the Etruscan civilisation, dating back to around 500 years BC. These small villages built in defensive positions pepper the landscape in this part of Lazio and emit a tangible sense of mystique, an indiscernible aura. Some of that sense of wonder is compromised by the appearance of the modern-looking bridge but without it, the village would be largely inaccessible.
It's a ten minute walk or so from the closest car park, situated at the eastern edge of Bagnoregio, to reach the Ponte Panoramico. Many a visitor to Cività di Bagnoregio will have reached the bridge and ploughed on towards the village before being called back by the staff at the little ticket office. It costs €5 to cross the bridge and vertigo sufferers beware, you may not enjoy the ensuing walk.
The bridge is stable enough but it's quite narrow and at a certain point, the drop below becomes more pronounced as it follows the shape of the valley below. There's also a significant upwards slope as you approach the village which requires a good bit of huff and puff to successfully negotiate. The Ponte Panoramico takes its names from the wonderful views that you can enjoy while crossing it but if the crossing makes you feel a bit too queasy, there are ample photo opportunities from a viewing area before you reach the bridge.
Once you've safely negotiated the bridge, you're met by the Porta Santa Maria (sometimes called the Porta Cava), the remaining entry gate where once there were five. Inside the village there are few sights as such but it's positively bursting with charm and character. The small number of homes are served by the gorgeous Chiesa di San Donato which takes its position on the square of the same name. Another building on Piazza San Donato tells the story of the village's erosion problems: the Museo Geologico e delle Frane which costs €3 to enter.
Another destination within the village is the Giardino del Poeta: a haven of peace where you can rest your weary limbs and soak up the Italian sun. The price to enter the garden is the purchase of one of the food products made locally.
Cività di Bagnoregio is situated in an area known as the Valle dei Calanchi, "The Badlands": a geographical area between Lake Bolsena to the west of the village and enclosed by the River Tiber to the east. You can get some wonderful views of this distinctive landscape from the neighbouring town of Lubriano which is just a short drive away.
There are as few as 10 to 15 official residents in Cività di Bagnoregio at the moment and it's difficult to imagine that those numbers will ever increase. The Ponte Panoramico bridge was only built in 1995 and before that, the village was extremely difficult to access, save for a tunnel called the Bucaione (Big Hole) which dates back to Etruscan times and provides access to the surrounding valley. The bridge has made life much easier but still the problem remains of the erosion which chips away a little more with each passing year.
This is one of the most unique locations in Italy and really worth the trouble to visit; especially as we don't know how much longer the village can survive. Cività is a frazione (hamlet or small village) of the Bagnoregio comune and you have to pass through the larger town in order to reach it. Bagnoregio is a completely different proposition: a typical town of the Lazio region with some historical buildings but largely unremarkable compared to its famous frazione.
Like so many towns and villages in the province of Viterbo, Cività di Bagnoregio has its origins in the Etruscan civilisation, dating back to around 500 years BC. These small villages built in defensive positions pepper the landscape in this part of Lazio and emit a tangible sense of mystique, an indiscernible aura. Some of that sense of wonder is compromised by the appearance of the modern-looking bridge but without it, the village would be largely inaccessible.
It's a ten minute walk or so from the closest car park, situated at the eastern edge of Bagnoregio, to reach the Ponte Panoramico. Many a visitor to Cività di Bagnoregio will have reached the bridge and ploughed on towards the village before being called back by the staff at the little ticket office. It costs €5 to cross the bridge and vertigo sufferers beware, you may not enjoy the ensuing walk.
The bridge is stable enough but it's quite narrow and at a certain point, the drop below becomes more pronounced as it follows the shape of the valley below. There's also a significant upwards slope as you approach the village which requires a good bit of huff and puff to successfully negotiate. The Ponte Panoramico takes its names from the wonderful views that you can enjoy while crossing it but if the crossing makes you feel a bit too queasy, there are ample photo opportunities from a viewing area before you reach the bridge.
Once you've safely negotiated the bridge, you're met by the Porta Santa Maria (sometimes called the Porta Cava), the remaining entry gate where once there were five. Inside the village there are few sights as such but it's positively bursting with charm and character. The small number of homes are served by the gorgeous Chiesa di San Donato which takes its position on the square of the same name. Another building on Piazza San Donato tells the story of the village's erosion problems: the Museo Geologico e delle Frane which costs €3 to enter.
Another destination within the village is the Giardino del Poeta: a haven of peace where you can rest your weary limbs and soak up the Italian sun. The price to enter the garden is the purchase of one of the food products made locally.
Cività di Bagnoregio is situated in an area known as the Valle dei Calanchi, "The Badlands": a geographical area between Lake Bolsena to the west of the village and enclosed by the River Tiber to the east. You can get some wonderful views of this distinctive landscape from the neighbouring town of Lubriano which is just a short drive away.
Cività - frazione di Bagnoregio
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Comune: Bagnoregio
Province: Viterbo Region: Lazio Elevation: 485 metres Highlights: Ponte Panoramico, Porta Cava, Giardino del Poeta Close by: Lubriano, Celleno, Marta, Capodimonte, Montefiascone Recommended hotel: Altarocca Wine Resort (25 km) |
One of I Borghi più belli d'Italia (Italy's Most Beautiful Villages)
Listing headline: La Città che Muore (The Town that Dies)
Listing headline: La Città che Muore (The Town that Dies)
