Mondovi
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 26 September 2023
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The historic town of Mondovì is situated within the Province of Cuneo and has a population of around 22,000 residents. Standing at an elevation of 395 metres above sea level, it's located a distance of 81 kilometres south of Turin, the capital of Piedmont.
The town is divided into a number of districts or rioni, either side of the River Ellero that flows through its centre. That central area at ground level is called Breo while to the west of the river the town rises up a hill to the rione of Piazza which is accessed via a funicular railway. Piazza is the site of a beautiful square and cathedral. |
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Once the largest town in Piedmont, Mondovì has had a colourful history, regularly changing hands between a series of French and Italian governments. At one time or another it's come under the jurisdiction of Charles of Anjou (King of Naples at the time), the House of Savoy, the Marquisate of Monferrato and Napleon's Kingdom of Italy. Each of these different historical eras and others besides have left their mark on this attractive provincial town.
The two main areas are the ground-level area of Breo and this historic hill town of Piazza. On arrival in Breo via the main road you're immediately presented with a beautifully-appointed town with a bridge across the river. The historical streets in this part of town are full of colour and nowhere is that more in evidence than Piazza Cesare Battisti, the first of a series of superb squares in the town.
A short walk beyond Piazza Cesare Battisti brings you to the second square of note: Piazza San Pietro. This stylish space is dominated at one end by the Chiesa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo, in front of which is a restaurant with outdoor seating. South of the Piazza the main thoroughfare of Via Sant'Agostino stretches for half a kilometre, along which the brightly-coloured walls are painted in the distinctive trompe l'oeil style. Halfway along the street is the Chiesa di Sant'Agostino while closer to Piazza San Pietro you may be forgiven for passing the inconspicuous narrow street of Via della Funicolare.
That is in fact one of the most important streets in the town as it leads up to Breo's funicular railway station. From there you can climb the hill to arguably the prettiest are of Mondovì known as Piazza. The name of the town's district can cause a little confusion because it's also the home to one of the most beautiful squares in Piedmont: Piazza Maggiore. The square is enclosed by historical buildings, among which are the 17th century Chiesa di San Francesco Saverio occupying the southern end. At the opposite end of the square, a building decorated with colourful frescoes conceals a narrow walkway which leads to the town's cathedral: the Cattedrale di San Donato.
From this, the higher part of town you can enjoy some wonderful panoramic views down on to the lower area of Breo from the garden just behind the cathedral called the Giardini di Belvedere. Better still, you can climb the tower which has several names (Torre Civica, Torre dei Bressani or Torre Belvedere) to take in vistas of a much wider area of the local landscape.
Although Mondovì does have its own train station, you usually need to change first before you can reach the major locations in this part of the region. Bus services are widely available but the greatest freedom can be enjoyed with a car. The main town in the area is Cuneo which lies 27 kilometres west of Mondovì and can be reached by car in around half an hour. Apart from the pretty village of Bene Vagienna, the area directly to the north of Mondovì is dominated by the vineyard aeea of the Langhe. Some of the key vineyard towns in the area are the likes of Barolo, Barbaresco and La Morra, which are all a scenic drive of half an hour or so away.
The Piedmont region is completely landlocked but Mondovì isn't too far from the coast. Its close proximity to the A6 motorway puts the city of Savona in the region of Liguria within reach, three quarters of an hour or so away.
The two main areas are the ground-level area of Breo and this historic hill town of Piazza. On arrival in Breo via the main road you're immediately presented with a beautifully-appointed town with a bridge across the river. The historical streets in this part of town are full of colour and nowhere is that more in evidence than Piazza Cesare Battisti, the first of a series of superb squares in the town.
A short walk beyond Piazza Cesare Battisti brings you to the second square of note: Piazza San Pietro. This stylish space is dominated at one end by the Chiesa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo, in front of which is a restaurant with outdoor seating. South of the Piazza the main thoroughfare of Via Sant'Agostino stretches for half a kilometre, along which the brightly-coloured walls are painted in the distinctive trompe l'oeil style. Halfway along the street is the Chiesa di Sant'Agostino while closer to Piazza San Pietro you may be forgiven for passing the inconspicuous narrow street of Via della Funicolare.
That is in fact one of the most important streets in the town as it leads up to Breo's funicular railway station. From there you can climb the hill to arguably the prettiest are of Mondovì known as Piazza. The name of the town's district can cause a little confusion because it's also the home to one of the most beautiful squares in Piedmont: Piazza Maggiore. The square is enclosed by historical buildings, among which are the 17th century Chiesa di San Francesco Saverio occupying the southern end. At the opposite end of the square, a building decorated with colourful frescoes conceals a narrow walkway which leads to the town's cathedral: the Cattedrale di San Donato.
From this, the higher part of town you can enjoy some wonderful panoramic views down on to the lower area of Breo from the garden just behind the cathedral called the Giardini di Belvedere. Better still, you can climb the tower which has several names (Torre Civica, Torre dei Bressani or Torre Belvedere) to take in vistas of a much wider area of the local landscape.
Although Mondovì does have its own train station, you usually need to change first before you can reach the major locations in this part of the region. Bus services are widely available but the greatest freedom can be enjoyed with a car. The main town in the area is Cuneo which lies 27 kilometres west of Mondovì and can be reached by car in around half an hour. Apart from the pretty village of Bene Vagienna, the area directly to the north of Mondovì is dominated by the vineyard aeea of the Langhe. Some of the key vineyard towns in the area are the likes of Barolo, Barbaresco and La Morra, which are all a scenic drive of half an hour or so away.
The Piedmont region is completely landlocked but Mondovì isn't too far from the coast. Its close proximity to the A6 motorway puts the city of Savona in the region of Liguria within reach, three quarters of an hour or so away.
Comune di Mondovì
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Province: Cuneo
Region: Piedmont Population: 22,015 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2023) Total size: 87 km² Elevation: 395 metres Highlights: Piazza Maggiore, funicular railway, Piazza San Pietro Close by: Cuneo, Bene Vagienna, Monforte d'Alba, Barolo Recommended hotel: Albergo della Ceramica (7 km) |
