Ostuni
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 6 January 2023
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The hill town of Ostuni is situated within the Province of Brindisi, a distance of 83 kilometres south east of Bari, the regional capital of Puglia. Standing at an elevation of 229 metres above sea level it has a population of around 31,000 residents.
Known locally as La Città Bianca, the White City sparkles from its perched position across three hills. At the same time as being the gateway to the Salento region to its south, it also signals the southern end of the Trulli zone of characteristic conical houses in the valley region known as the Valle d'Itria. |
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It's easy to understand why Ostuni is called the White City; from a distance its whitewashed walls act as an inviting beacon among the local landscape of olive groves. The three hills that the town is built across mark distinct areas with the majority of tourists focusing their attention on the centro storico, the historic centre to the north of Piazza della Libertà.
The expansive Piazza is a favourite meeting and focal point in the town; during the hot summers it's heaving with locals and visitors alike, enjoying the healthy nightlife. At the south-eastern edge of the triangular Piazza is a monument in honour to the town's patron saint: Saint Orontius of Lecce. Built in 1771, the 27 metre high obelisk known as the Guglia di Sant'Oronzo stands in reverence to the saint who is credited with saving Ostuni from the plague of the 17th century. Further homage is paid to the saint at an annual festival: the Cavalcata di Sant'Oronzo which takes place from 25th - 27th August, and takes the form of a parade of horses surmounted by knights in full regalia.
From Piazza della Libertà the real beauty of Ostuni can start to be appreciated; the narrow streets with their heavily-worn and shiny stone roads snake their way around and gradually up the hill to the Duomo. Along the main thoroughfare of Via Cattedrale you'll pass a variety of shops including those selling the colourful local ceramics, intermingled with dozens of places to eat and drink.
It takes around 5 minutes to walk from Piazza della Libertà up to the town's main sight: Ostuni Cathedral. The 15th century edifice has a beautiful facade of Gothic, Byzantine and Romanesque influences, with a large rose window as its centrepiece. Outside the Cathedral is a decorative archway known as the Arco Scoppa which connects the Palazzo Vescovile to the Palazzo del Seminario on either side of the street. The current structure, made of stone, replaced the previously wooden archway in 1750.
Towards the bottom of Via Cattedrale, close to Piazza della Libertà lies the Museum of Preclassic Civilisations of the Southern Murgia (Museo di Civiltà Preclassiche della Murgia Meridionale). Its long-winded title is outdone in longevity by its star exhibit: the affectionally-known Delia, a 25,000 year old skeleton dating back to the Paleolithic Age.
Aside from legendary skeletons and the other sights mentioned above, Ostuni is a great place to simply wander and soak up the atmosphere. There are dozens of little alleyways that lead off Via Cattedrale and they're often worth exploring as you can find less touristy restaurants and some lovely, shady courtyards or perhaps a great view towards the coast.
Whilst Ostuni does have a train station, it's situated 3 kilometres north of the hill town which requires a bus, or more reliably, a taxi to reach. Trains from Ostuni run south to the nearest major city of Brindisi with a journey time of around half an hour or north to Bari in 51 minutes. Some of the logistical challenges created by the train station's out of town location make a car the best option for exploration of the local area.
There's much to explore as well: to the west of Ostuni are the little towns of the Valle d'Itria, famous above all for their Trulli houses. The first town on the westbound road way from Ostuni is Cisternino which is followed in short order by Locorotondo and finally by Alberobello which marks the apogee of the Trulli building. Within this little constellation of towns is the slightly larger Martina Franca which has some wonderful architecture of its own to see. Ostuni is only twelve kilometres from the coast and the beautiful beach of Costa Merlata while further north along the coast are some more substantial seaside towns such as Monopoli and Polignano a Mare, one of the best of its kind.
The most convenient airport for Ostuni is the Brindisi Salento Airport which is just half an hour away by car (37 km), while the next best alternative is Bari Karol Wojtyla Airport, an hour and ten minutes (99 km) north, most of which is along the coastal road.
The expansive Piazza is a favourite meeting and focal point in the town; during the hot summers it's heaving with locals and visitors alike, enjoying the healthy nightlife. At the south-eastern edge of the triangular Piazza is a monument in honour to the town's patron saint: Saint Orontius of Lecce. Built in 1771, the 27 metre high obelisk known as the Guglia di Sant'Oronzo stands in reverence to the saint who is credited with saving Ostuni from the plague of the 17th century. Further homage is paid to the saint at an annual festival: the Cavalcata di Sant'Oronzo which takes place from 25th - 27th August, and takes the form of a parade of horses surmounted by knights in full regalia.
From Piazza della Libertà the real beauty of Ostuni can start to be appreciated; the narrow streets with their heavily-worn and shiny stone roads snake their way around and gradually up the hill to the Duomo. Along the main thoroughfare of Via Cattedrale you'll pass a variety of shops including those selling the colourful local ceramics, intermingled with dozens of places to eat and drink.
It takes around 5 minutes to walk from Piazza della Libertà up to the town's main sight: Ostuni Cathedral. The 15th century edifice has a beautiful facade of Gothic, Byzantine and Romanesque influences, with a large rose window as its centrepiece. Outside the Cathedral is a decorative archway known as the Arco Scoppa which connects the Palazzo Vescovile to the Palazzo del Seminario on either side of the street. The current structure, made of stone, replaced the previously wooden archway in 1750.
Towards the bottom of Via Cattedrale, close to Piazza della Libertà lies the Museum of Preclassic Civilisations of the Southern Murgia (Museo di Civiltà Preclassiche della Murgia Meridionale). Its long-winded title is outdone in longevity by its star exhibit: the affectionally-known Delia, a 25,000 year old skeleton dating back to the Paleolithic Age.
Aside from legendary skeletons and the other sights mentioned above, Ostuni is a great place to simply wander and soak up the atmosphere. There are dozens of little alleyways that lead off Via Cattedrale and they're often worth exploring as you can find less touristy restaurants and some lovely, shady courtyards or perhaps a great view towards the coast.
Whilst Ostuni does have a train station, it's situated 3 kilometres north of the hill town which requires a bus, or more reliably, a taxi to reach. Trains from Ostuni run south to the nearest major city of Brindisi with a journey time of around half an hour or north to Bari in 51 minutes. Some of the logistical challenges created by the train station's out of town location make a car the best option for exploration of the local area.
There's much to explore as well: to the west of Ostuni are the little towns of the Valle d'Itria, famous above all for their Trulli houses. The first town on the westbound road way from Ostuni is Cisternino which is followed in short order by Locorotondo and finally by Alberobello which marks the apogee of the Trulli building. Within this little constellation of towns is the slightly larger Martina Franca which has some wonderful architecture of its own to see. Ostuni is only twelve kilometres from the coast and the beautiful beach of Costa Merlata while further north along the coast are some more substantial seaside towns such as Monopoli and Polignano a Mare, one of the best of its kind.
The most convenient airport for Ostuni is the Brindisi Salento Airport which is just half an hour away by car (37 km), while the next best alternative is Bari Karol Wojtyla Airport, an hour and ten minutes (99 km) north, most of which is along the coastal road.
Comune di Ostuni
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Province: Brindisi
Region: Puglia Population: 30,302 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2023) Total size: 223 km² Elevation: 229 metres Highlights: Ostuni Cathedral, Via Cattedrale, Arco Scoppa Close by: Costa Merlata, Cisternino, Torre Guaceto, Locorotondo Recommended accommodation: Ostuni Palace Hotel Bistro & Spa |
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