Portovenere
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 30 December 2023
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Standing proud in an area of exceptional beauty, the seaside town of Portovenere provides history, colour and romance in equal measure. It lies at the south-western tip of the aptly-named Golfo dei Poeti (Gulf of Poets), overlooking the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto.
Once the playground of Lord Byron, it's a jewel of Liguria's Riviera di Levante. Portovenere, the three islands it faces, and the nearby five villages known as the Cinque Terre, have been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. |
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Attractive coastline
The first of the five villages, Riomaggiore, lies around 15 kilometres north west of Portovenere, along one of the most picturesque stretches of coastline in Italy. The approach to the town comes via a scenic route from the town of La Spezia, passing the smaller fishing villages of Cadimare, Fezzano and Le Grazie along the way.
On arrival in Portovenere, the first thing you notice is the cluster of multi-coloured houses along the seafront known as Calata Doria or the Palazzata. Just in front of the Palazzata is Portovenere's port from where you can take excursions to the Cinque Terre and the adjacent islands or simply to travel by sea to Rapallo or La Spezia. Both towns act as useful bases from which to travel to Portovenere where it can be extremely difficult to park and where accommodation options are limited and pricey.
On arrival in Portovenere, the first thing you notice is the cluster of multi-coloured houses along the seafront known as Calata Doria or the Palazzata. Just in front of the Palazzata is Portovenere's port from where you can take excursions to the Cinque Terre and the adjacent islands or simply to travel by sea to Rapallo or La Spezia. Both towns act as useful bases from which to travel to Portovenere where it can be extremely difficult to park and where accommodation options are limited and pricey.
Exploring the carruggi
It was the Romans who first established the town, naming it Portus Veneris, an homage to the god of love: Venus. If you walk all the way along the seafront you eventually reach a rocky outcrop upon which sits the Chiesa di San Pietro.
The church was built in the 13th century and replaced a Roman temple, also dedicated to Venus. Part of the church comprises a balcony from which you can get beautiful views out to sea or across the bay to the island of Palmaria.
Just a few steps from the Chiesa di San Pietro is a now-collapsed cave that was once called the Grotta Arpaia. It was from this cave that Byron famously swam across the to the town of San Terenzo, a quite daring feat when you consider the distances involved. As a consequence of his exploits, the cave was subsequently renamed the Grotta di Byron.
Looking back from the rocky outcrop you can take a stroll towards Via Capellini. This is one of the busiest streets in the town where the narrow passageways (known as carruggi) are overlooked by the tall port buildings.
The church was built in the 13th century and replaced a Roman temple, also dedicated to Venus. Part of the church comprises a balcony from which you can get beautiful views out to sea or across the bay to the island of Palmaria.
Just a few steps from the Chiesa di San Pietro is a now-collapsed cave that was once called the Grotta Arpaia. It was from this cave that Byron famously swam across the to the town of San Terenzo, a quite daring feat when you consider the distances involved. As a consequence of his exploits, the cave was subsequently renamed the Grotta di Byron.
Looking back from the rocky outcrop you can take a stroll towards Via Capellini. This is one of the busiest streets in the town where the narrow passageways (known as carruggi) are overlooked by the tall port buildings.
Chiesa di San Lorenzo and Castello Doria
From here, you can take the steep climb away from the centre where you will first come across another church, the 12th century Chiesa di San Lorenzo. Keep an eye out here for a sculpture that depicts the saint's gruesome execution: cooked to death on a grill. Ouch!
Continuing the steep climb away from the main area of the town you eventually reach the castle. Built in the 12th century, Castello Doria is named after the famous Doria family who once controlled Genoa during its time as a major maritime power. The castle affords stunning views down to the town and across to the islands; it's a bit of a trek on a hot day but well worth all the effort once you get there.
Apart from the small, medieval centre of Portovenere, there's a long promenade, lined with restaurants and hotels, that stretches north east towards an area of beaches. If you've driven to Portovenere it's more likely that you'll have had to park somewhere along this stretch of road to find a space but it does offer an extra dimension to the town and of a course, a number of places where you can take a dip.
Continuing the steep climb away from the main area of the town you eventually reach the castle. Built in the 12th century, Castello Doria is named after the famous Doria family who once controlled Genoa during its time as a major maritime power. The castle affords stunning views down to the town and across to the islands; it's a bit of a trek on a hot day but well worth all the effort once you get there.
Apart from the small, medieval centre of Portovenere, there's a long promenade, lined with restaurants and hotels, that stretches north east towards an area of beaches. If you've driven to Portovenere it's more likely that you'll have had to park somewhere along this stretch of road to find a space but it does offer an extra dimension to the town and of a course, a number of places where you can take a dip.
Comune di Portovenere
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Province: La Spezia
Region: Liguria Population: 3,310 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2023) Size: 7 km² Highlights: Chiesa di San Pietro, Castello Doria, Palazzata Close by: Cinque Terre, La Spezia, Riomaggiore, Vernazza, Tellaro Recommended accommodation: Grand Hotel Portovenere |
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Portovenere, Cinque Terre and the Islands (Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto)
Year: 1997
Portovenere, Cinque Terre and the Islands (Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto)
Year: 1997
