Portovenere
⭐ Ranked #85 in the Italy Review Top 100 – My Most Recommended Destinations
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Latest page update: 21 May 2025
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By: Dion Protani
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Standing proud in an area of exceptional beauty, the seaside town of Portovenere provides history, colour and romance in equal measure. It lies at the south-western tip of the aptly-named Golfo dei Poeti (Gulf of Poets), overlooking the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto.
Once the playground of Lord Byron, it's a jewel of Liguria's Riviera di Levante. Portovenere, the three islands it faces, and the nearby five villages known as the Cinque Terre, have been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. |
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What People Ask About Portovenere
Where is Portovenere located?
What is Portovenere known for?
How do you get to Portovenere?
Can you swim in Portovenere?
Is Portovenere part of Cinque Terre?
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Discover Portovenere
Attractive coastline
The first of the five villages, Riomaggiore, lies around 15 kilometres north west of Portovenere, along one of the most picturesque stretches of coastline in Italy. The approach to the town comes via a scenic route from the town of La Spezia, passing the smaller fishing villages of Cadimare, Fezzano and Le Grazie along the way.
On arrival in Portovenere, the first thing you notice is the cluster of multi-coloured houses along the seafront known as Calata Doria or the Palazzata. Just in front of the Palazzata is Portovenere's port from where you can take excursions to the Cinque Terre and the adjacent islands or simply to travel by sea to Rapallo or La Spezia. Both towns act as useful bases from which to travel to Portovenere where it can be extremely difficult to park and where accommodation options are limited and pricey.
On arrival in Portovenere, the first thing you notice is the cluster of multi-coloured houses along the seafront known as Calata Doria or the Palazzata. Just in front of the Palazzata is Portovenere's port from where you can take excursions to the Cinque Terre and the adjacent islands or simply to travel by sea to Rapallo or La Spezia. Both towns act as useful bases from which to travel to Portovenere where it can be extremely difficult to park and where accommodation options are limited and pricey.
Exploring the carruggi
It was the Romans who first established the town, naming it Portus Veneris, an homage to the god of love: Venus. If you walk all the way along the seafront you eventually reach a rocky outcrop upon which sits the Chiesa di San Pietro.
The church was built in the 13th century and replaced a Roman temple, also dedicated to Venus. Part of the church comprises a balcony from which you can get beautiful views out to sea or across the bay to the island of Palmaria.
Just a few steps from the Chiesa di San Pietro is a now-collapsed cave that was once called the Grotta Arpaia. It was from this cave that Byron famously swam across the to the town of San Terenzo, a quite daring feat when you consider the distances involved. As a consequence of his exploits, the cave was subsequently renamed the Grotta di Byron.
Looking back from the rocky outcrop you can take a stroll towards Via Capellini. This is one of the busiest streets in the town where the narrow passageways (known as carruggi) are overlooked by the tall port buildings.
The church was built in the 13th century and replaced a Roman temple, also dedicated to Venus. Part of the church comprises a balcony from which you can get beautiful views out to sea or across the bay to the island of Palmaria.
Just a few steps from the Chiesa di San Pietro is a now-collapsed cave that was once called the Grotta Arpaia. It was from this cave that Byron famously swam across the to the town of San Terenzo, a quite daring feat when you consider the distances involved. As a consequence of his exploits, the cave was subsequently renamed the Grotta di Byron.
Looking back from the rocky outcrop you can take a stroll towards Via Capellini. This is one of the busiest streets in the town where the narrow passageways (known as carruggi) are overlooked by the tall port buildings.
Chiesa di San Lorenzo and Castello Doria
From here, you can take the steep climb away from the centre where you will first come across another church, the 12th century Chiesa di San Lorenzo. Keep an eye out here for a sculpture that depicts the saint's gruesome execution: cooked to death on a grill. Ouch!
Continuing the steep climb away from the main area of the town you eventually reach the castle. Built in the 12th century, Castello Doria is named after the famous Doria family who once controlled Genoa during its time as a major maritime power. The castle affords stunning views down to the town and across to the islands; it's a bit of a trek on a hot day but well worth all the effort once you get there.
Apart from the small, medieval centre of Portovenere, there's a long promenade, lined with restaurants and hotels, that stretches north east towards an area of beaches. If you've driven to Portovenere it's more likely that you'll have had to park somewhere along this stretch of road to find a space but it does offer an extra dimension to the town and of a course, a number of places where you can take a dip.
Continuing the steep climb away from the main area of the town you eventually reach the castle. Built in the 12th century, Castello Doria is named after the famous Doria family who once controlled Genoa during its time as a major maritime power. The castle affords stunning views down to the town and across to the islands; it's a bit of a trek on a hot day but well worth all the effort once you get there.
Apart from the small, medieval centre of Portovenere, there's a long promenade, lined with restaurants and hotels, that stretches north east towards an area of beaches. If you've driven to Portovenere it's more likely that you'll have had to park somewhere along this stretch of road to find a space but it does offer an extra dimension to the town and of a course, a number of places where you can take a dip.
Things to Do
Things to Do in Portovenere
- Chiesa di San Pietro stands dramatically on a rocky promontory at the edge of the village. Built in the 13th century over a 5th-century foundation, it features Gothic and Romanesque elements. Its striped black and white façade is characteristic of Ligurian style. The location offers sweeping views of the sea and coastline.
- Castello Doria is a fortified structure overlooking Portovenere from above, once used to guard against sea attacks. Dating to the 12th century, it includes towers, thick stone walls and open terraces. Visitors can walk through its preserved halls and ramparts. The castle is also used for cultural events during summer.
- Grotta di Byron is a sea cave named after the English poet Lord Byron, who is said to have swum across the bay from here to visit friends in Lerici. It lies beneath the cliffs near the Church of San Pietro. The cave is accessible on foot via a short path and staircase. The viewpoint is popular at sunset.
- Centro Storico di Portovenere consists of a row of tall, narrow houses painted in vivid colours, forming a defensive wall along the harbour. Inside the historic centre, lanes lead uphill past small shops, traditional restaurants and hidden chapels. The town layout reflects its medieval origins. It is compact and walkable.
- Palmaria Island lies just offshore and is reachable by boat from the harbour. The island is part of a protected area and features beaches, walking trails and military ruins. Key spots include the abandoned Fort Cavour and the Blue Grotto. It is a popular destination for hiking, swimming and day trips from the mainland.
Portovenere Tours and Activities
Comune di Portovenere
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Province: La Spezia
Region: Liguria Population: 3,254 (in 2024 - source) Size: 7 km² Highlights: Chiesa di San Pietro, Castello Doria, Palazzata Close by: Cinque Terre, La Spezia, Riomaggiore, Vernazza, Tellaro |
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Portovenere, Cinque Terre and the Islands (Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto)
Year: 1997
Portovenere, Cinque Terre and the Islands (Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto)
Year: 1997
Where to Stay
Where to Stay in Portovenere
- Grand Hotel Portovenere Located just a short walk from the beach, this luxury hotel offers stylish rooms with stunning sea views, an elegant restaurant serving Ligurian cuisine, and a terrace overlooking the Gulf of Poets. Guests appreciate the prime location, the comfortable facilities, and the excellent service. €€€ (high-end)
- Hotel Paradiso Situated in a tranquil area close to the town centre, this well-regarded hotel features comfortable rooms, a garden with panoramic views, and a bar. Visitors enjoy the peaceful setting, the short walk to Portovenere's historic attractions, and the welcoming atmosphere. €€ (mid-range)
- B&B Le Grazie Set in a charming location near the town, this bed and breakfast offers cosy rooms, a lovely garden, and a homemade breakfast served each morning. Guests value the friendly hosts, the peaceful surroundings, and the easy access to the coast and nearby attractions. €€ (mid-range)
- Residence I Gabbiani A collection of self-catering apartments located just outside the town centre, featuring kitchenettes, private balconies, and air conditioning. Guests appreciate the flexibility of apartment living, the outdoor space, and the short drive to Portovenere’s historic centre and beaches. €€ (mid-range)
- Hotel Della Baia Located just a short walk from the beach, this well-rated hotel offers comfortable rooms, a restaurant serving local dishes, and a terrace with views of the bay. Guests enjoy the convenient location, the clean facilities, and the good value for money. €€ (mid-range)
Where to Eat
Where to Eat in Portovenere
- Ristorante Palmaria: Located in the heart of Portovenere, Ristorante Palmaria offers a variety of traditional Ligurian dishes, including seafood pasta and local specialties like trofie with pesto. The restaurant's terrace provides beautiful views of the sea, creating a perfect atmosphere for dining. Price guide: €€ (Mid-range)
- La Chiglia: Situated along the waterfront, La Chiglia specializes in fresh seafood, including local fish dishes and a variety of pasta options. The restaurant’s outdoor seating area offers stunning views of the Gulf of Poets. Price guide: €€ (Mid-range)
- Ristorante del Borgo: Found in the historic centre of Portovenere, this family-run restaurant offers a selection of seafood and traditional Italian dishes, such as pasta with clams and grilled fish. The charming atmosphere and welcoming service make it a great place to dine. Price guide: €€ (Mid-range)
- Osteria della Corte in Le Grazie: About 2 km from Portovenere, Osteria della Corte offers traditional Ligurian dishes with a focus on local seafood and fresh pasta. The cosy setting and attentive service add to the overall experience. Price guide: €€ (Mid-range)
- Ristorante La Lanterna in Le Grazie: Located around 3 km from Portovenere, La Lanterna offers a menu that includes seafood and regional Italian dishes, all served in a relaxed atmosphere with stunning views of the sea. Price guide: €€ (Mid-range)
Photo Gallery
Portovenere Photo Gallery
Places Close to [Place Name]
Places Close to Portovenere
- La Spezia (approx. 15 km northeast of Portovenere): A lively port town with a mix of history and modern attractions, La Spezia offers several landmarks such as the Castello di San Giorgio, the Museo Civico Amedeo Lia, and the scenic Piazza Garibaldi. It’s also the gateway to the Cinque Terre and Portovenere, with easy access to boat tours and hiking routes.
- Cinque Terre (approx. 40 km northwest of Portovenere): A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Cinque Terre is made up of five beautiful villages – Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Known for their colourful houses, dramatic cliffs, and terraced vineyards, the villages are perfect for hiking, swimming, and exploring the local culture.
- Lerici (approx. 10 km southeast of Portovenere): A picturesque seaside town with a historic centre and a beautiful promenade, Lerici is known for its impressive Castello di Lerici and its lovely beaches. The town offers stunning views of the Gulf of La Spezia and is an ideal starting point for boat trips to nearby Palmaria Island and other coastal destinations.
- Tellaro (approx. 20 km southeast of Portovenere): A small, charming village perched on a cliff, Tellaro is part of the Lerici Gulf and offers narrow streets, colourful houses, and beautiful sea views. The village is perfect for a peaceful stroll, enjoying local seafood, and exploring the Chiesa di San Giorgio with its panoramic terrace.
- Carrara (approx. 30 km northwest of Portovenere): Famous for its world-renowned marble quarries, Carrara offers visitors the opportunity to tour the marble caves and explore the Carrara Cathedral. The town also has an artistic heritage, with several museums showcasing sculptures and artwork made from the famous white marble.
Liguria Top 10 - My Recommended Destinations in Liguria
1. Cinque Terre
2. Portofino
3. Sestri Levante
4. Camogli
5. Rapallo
6. Portovenere
7. Lerici
8. Santa Margherita Ligure
9. Genoa
10. Finalborgo
👉 Explore the Top 10 Places to Visit in Liguria
1. Cinque Terre
2. Portofino
3. Sestri Levante
4. Camogli
5. Rapallo
6. Portovenere
7. Lerici
8. Santa Margherita Ligure
9. Genoa
10. Finalborgo
👉 Explore the Top 10 Places to Visit in Liguria
How to Get to [Place Name]
How to Get to Portovenere
By Rail: Portovenere does not have its own train station. The nearest station is La Spezia Centrale, approximately 12 km away. From La Spezia, you can take a local bus or taxi to Portovenere, with the journey taking around 20 minutes.
By Road: Portovenere is approximately 80 km southeast of Genoa, with a driving time of around 1 hour and 30 minutes via the A12 motorway. From Genoa, take the A12 motorway southbound, exit at La Spezia, and follow signs to Portovenere.
By Ferry: Portovenere is accessible by ferry from several nearby locations:
Nearest International Airport:
By Road: Portovenere is approximately 80 km southeast of Genoa, with a driving time of around 1 hour and 30 minutes via the A12 motorway. From Genoa, take the A12 motorway southbound, exit at La Spezia, and follow signs to Portovenere.
By Ferry: Portovenere is accessible by ferry from several nearby locations:
- La Spezia: Regular ferry services operate between La Spezia and Portovenere, with journey times of approximately 30 minutes.
- Cinque Terre Villages: During the tourist season, ferries connect Portovenere with the Cinque Terre villages, with crossing times ranging from 30 to 60 minutes.
Nearest International Airport:
- Pisa International Airport (Galileo Galilei Airport): Located about 100 km southwest of Portovenere, the drive takes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes via the A12 motorway. From the airport, you can rent a car or take a train to La Spezia, then proceed as described above.
