Asinara
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 21 January 2024
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A brief look at the statistics below shows you that Asinara has a population of one and that's just the start of the intrigue surrounding this fascinating island. Not only is it an island but it's also the Asinara National Park with a protected marine area. Not enough?
What if I throw in the fact that there used to be a maximum security prison here and that the island's one inhabitant is dwarfed by the much larger community of donkeys that dominate proceedings? |
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Crossing from Porto Torres
My own personal visit to the island was one of the best days I've had in the whole experience of putting the Italy Review websites together. I set out in the morning not really knowing what to expect (partly due to poor research and partly due to my usual preference of just winging it).
I remember getting in a panic trying to find the ticket office at Porto Torres, driving around for ages looking for the Delcomar kiosk, finding it closed and eventually realising that the ticket office is on the ferry itself. Yes that's right, you board the ferry and buy a ticket for the ferry when you're already on it.
The ferry journey lasts an hour and a quarter and aside from your fellow tourists, you are accompanied by all the people that work on the island. So you step off the ferry, walk past some donkeys munching the grass outside the visitor centre, make your way across to the bar to get a coffee and find the person you were sitting next to on the ferry on the way over, waiting to serve you.
I remember getting in a panic trying to find the ticket office at Porto Torres, driving around for ages looking for the Delcomar kiosk, finding it closed and eventually realising that the ticket office is on the ferry itself. Yes that's right, you board the ferry and buy a ticket for the ferry when you're already on it.
The ferry journey lasts an hour and a quarter and aside from your fellow tourists, you are accompanied by all the people that work on the island. So you step off the ferry, walk past some donkeys munching the grass outside the visitor centre, make your way across to the bar to get a coffee and find the person you were sitting next to on the ferry on the way over, waiting to serve you.
Electric buggy hire
This phenomenon is repeated when organising the rental of an electric buggy. By the way you can also choose to take a guided walking tour or a tour in a jeep but I decided to go it alone on this occasion.
My day riding the electric buggy was unbridled fun. Despite being a modern-looking vehicle, the hand-brake was more for show than anything and I learned to rest it against rocks when parking on a slope to take my photos.
You're not allowed to veer off the tracks but what you can see is spectacular scenery; the brightest blue sea interspersed with a barren landscape frequented by donkeys and the occasional horse or goat.
My day riding the electric buggy was unbridled fun. Despite being a modern-looking vehicle, the hand-brake was more for show than anything and I learned to rest it against rocks when parking on a slope to take my photos.
You're not allowed to veer off the tracks but what you can see is spectacular scenery; the brightest blue sea interspersed with a barren landscape frequented by donkeys and the occasional horse or goat.
Former prison
Apart from some of the beautiful bays, one of the most interesting parts of the island is the former prison. It's incredible to think that during World War One there were as many as 24,000 Austrian and Hungarian prisoners incarcerated on the island although the main prison building was the unwanted home to considerably fewer residents than that. Closed only in 1997, you can still see desks, telephones and noticeboards that were part of the fabric of every day life at the establishment.
Donkeys
Most of the donkeys on the island are a particular breed of white donkey known as the Asinara Donkey. The Italian word for donkey is "asino" so it's not much of a leap to assume the island's name derives from its star residents but this is in fact disputed; there are those that say it comes from the Latin word "sinuaria" which as we all know (or just looked up) means "sinus-shaped". Hmm, I'm sticking with the donkey theory.
Although I visited Asinara from Porto Torres, there are further connections available from the closer port of Stintino (May to September) on certain days of the week (full timetables coming soon). Whether making your crossing from Porto Torres or Stintino, it would be wise to allow some time to visit the nearby La Pelosa Beach, one of the finest in Italy in what is indeed an area of rare beauty.
Although I visited Asinara from Porto Torres, there are further connections available from the closer port of Stintino (May to September) on certain days of the week (full timetables coming soon). Whether making your crossing from Porto Torres or Stintino, it would be wise to allow some time to visit the nearby La Pelosa Beach, one of the finest in Italy in what is indeed an area of rare beauty.
Isola dell'Asinara
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Province: Sassari
Region: Sardinia Population: 1 Size: 52 km² Highlights: incredible scenery and wildlife Arrival port: Cala Reale Journey time from Sardinian mainland: 1 hour 15 minutes Distance from nearest Sardinian mainland port: 40 km Arrive by: ferry, water-taxi Arrive from: Porto Torres, Stintino Fly to: Alghero Fertilia Airport (46 km) Recommended accommodation: Park Hotel Asinara (Stintino) |
