Polignano a Mare
By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 30 December 2023
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One of Puglia's and indeed, Italy's signature seaside towns, Polignano a Mare is situated on the Adriatic coast, a short distance south of Bari. Domenico Modugno, he of the classic Italian song volare, is a favourite son of Polignano a Mare and his statue stands proudly looking out over the town's crystalline waters.
Listen to that song and no matter whereabouts in the world you are, you feel somehow temporarily whisked away to a beautiful summer's day beside the sea in Italy. If you had to identify exactly where that place is, then Polignano a Mare fits the bill perfectly. |
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Picture postcard bay
One of the most iconic images of Puglia is the view from the Ponte di Polignano, the vertiginous bridge that overlooks the small bay with its ever-changing shades of blue and turquoise. The beach draws visitors from far and wide during the summer months and those that don't wish to take the conventional route into the water take daring leaps from the limestone cliffs surrounding the bay.
At the top of those cliffs is the gorgeous centro storico (historic centre) with its typical whitewashed buildings and tangled web of intriguing alleyways. At the heart of the old town is the beautiful Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II; lined with open-air cafes and restaurants, it's also the home to the Palazzo dell'Orologio (clock tower) and the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta church.
At the top of those cliffs is the gorgeous centro storico (historic centre) with its typical whitewashed buildings and tangled web of intriguing alleyways. At the heart of the old town is the beautiful Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II; lined with open-air cafes and restaurants, it's also the home to the Palazzo dell'Orologio (clock tower) and the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta church.
Exploring the historic centre
There is much to explore throughout the town, not least of which the panoramic viewpoints that look out from those steep cliffs. To the west of the Piazza you'll find a couple of different terraces which look down on to the main beach, while over on the opposite side of town you get a slightly different perspective from further viewing areas.
One thing not to be missed (this coming from someone who missed it twice!), is the Grotta Palazzese. You may have seen videos of this restaurant carved out of the side of a cave without realising exactly where it is but it's most definitely here in Polignano and a quite awe-inspiring place to dine, either for at a sunny lunchtime or a dramatically-lit evening.
Polignano a Mare is simple to reach either by private car or public transport. By car from Bari Airport it's around an hour, or if you're travelling from the centre of Bari, you can take the Lecce train which stops in Polignano after half an hour and six stops. The train station is handily located around a 5 minute walk from the town centre.
One thing not to be missed (this coming from someone who missed it twice!), is the Grotta Palazzese. You may have seen videos of this restaurant carved out of the side of a cave without realising exactly where it is but it's most definitely here in Polignano and a quite awe-inspiring place to dine, either for at a sunny lunchtime or a dramatically-lit evening.
Polignano a Mare is simple to reach either by private car or public transport. By car from Bari Airport it's around an hour, or if you're travelling from the centre of Bari, you can take the Lecce train which stops in Polignano after half an hour and six stops. The train station is handily located around a 5 minute walk from the town centre.
Comune di Polignano a Mare
Province: Metropolitan City of Bari
Region: Puglia Population: 17,653 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2022) Size: 67 km² Highlights: beach, old town, Grotta Palazzese, Ponte di Polignano Water quality: Blue Flag Beach 2021 - 2022 Recommended accommodation: San Tommaso Hotel Close by: Bari, Ostuni, Brindisi, Alberobello, Matera, Taranto |