Portofino
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 6 January 2023
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Immortalised in song and countless paintings, the little fishing village of Portofino catches the imagination of every open-mouthed visitor that passes through it.
The Portofino Peninsula is a lush headland around 25 kilometres east of Genoa, the capital of Liguria. To stand out from the crowd among the incomparable stretch of coastline known as the Riviera di Levante is no mean feat, but Portofino achieves this with ease. |
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To get you in the mood for a visit, you could listen to the dulcet tones of Dalida in her 1959 song "Love in Portofino". The gentle melodies and tempo of the song are the perfect background accompaniment for this graceful, tranquil corner of heaven.
Portofino is really quite a small place with a tiny population of around 400 or so, but during the summer months these numbers swell greatly with restaurants and bars full to the brim. The main square is Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta; enclosed on three sides by the typical multi-coloured rows of buildings that you find throughout Liguria, and opening out to sea on the other. The Piazza is a hive of activity with dozens of places to eat and no shortage of shops. This is one of those places where you just need to check your bank account before you casually start swiping your credit card though, as the town's glamour is generally reflected in the prices.
One of the main shopping streets is Via Roma; a pedestrianised street that leads out of town towards Piazza della Libertà. As most people visit Portofino by road, Piazza della Libertà is the first place you arrive at in the town and marks the point beyond which vehicles cannot pass. There are a number of parking options here including street parking and a modern, multi-storey car park where you pay at departure.
Back in the thick of the action at Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta; if looking directly out to sea with Via Roma behind you, there's a choice of walking left along the promenade of Calata Marconi, or right towards Molo Umberto its opposite number. Calata Marconi is one of the most picturesque walkways in the town where you'll find a number of restaurants, gelaterias and shops. The number of businesses operating along Molo Umberto is much fewer, but keep following this path and you'll eventually reach the south-eastern headland that looks back over the town.
Once you locate Salita San Giorgio, you'll start the steady climb towards the Chiesa di San Giorgio, a beautiful church where it is claimed the relics of Saint George, he of dragon-slaying fame, are housed. Continuing past the church you eventually reach Castello Brown, named after a British consul who bought it in 1867. Continue for another half a kilometre along the shaded path to reach the end of the headland at the Portofino Lighthouse with its breathtaking views. Further dazzling views can be had at Punta del Coppo which marks the easternmost point of Portofino's main bay, and one of the best spots for photos.
You can extend your visit to Portofino by taking a walk away from the town, on the road towards Santa Margherita Ligure. From the Chiesa di San Martino, walk along the main road for around 5 minutes to reach the drop dead gorgeous Baia Cannone where you'll find the iconic waterfront buildings. You can also walk some of this way along an elevated path known as the Passeggiata dei Baci ("Pathway of Kisses") to avoid walking next to the cars. if you continue from Baia Cannone for another 15 minutes or so you'll come to the beach resort of Paraggi.
An alternative hike from the centre of Portofino is towards the beautiful Abbey of San Fruttuoso. The two hour hike is fairly gentle and will give you some wonderful panoramas along the way. If you don't wish to walk, you can take a boat from Portofino harbour with a journey time of around 15 minutes.
Accommodation in Portofino is limited, exclusive and you've guessed it: expensive. There are though plenty of options in Santa Margherita Ligure, a bigger seaside town located five kilometres from Portofino. You can travel along the coast road either by car or bus with a journey time of 10 - 15 minutes. It's also possible to reach Portofino by boat from both Santa Margherita Ligure and the slightly further afield Rapallo, another beautiful seaside town with abundant accommodation options.
Portofino is really quite a small place with a tiny population of around 400 or so, but during the summer months these numbers swell greatly with restaurants and bars full to the brim. The main square is Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta; enclosed on three sides by the typical multi-coloured rows of buildings that you find throughout Liguria, and opening out to sea on the other. The Piazza is a hive of activity with dozens of places to eat and no shortage of shops. This is one of those places where you just need to check your bank account before you casually start swiping your credit card though, as the town's glamour is generally reflected in the prices.
One of the main shopping streets is Via Roma; a pedestrianised street that leads out of town towards Piazza della Libertà. As most people visit Portofino by road, Piazza della Libertà is the first place you arrive at in the town and marks the point beyond which vehicles cannot pass. There are a number of parking options here including street parking and a modern, multi-storey car park where you pay at departure.
Back in the thick of the action at Piazza Martiri dell'Olivetta; if looking directly out to sea with Via Roma behind you, there's a choice of walking left along the promenade of Calata Marconi, or right towards Molo Umberto its opposite number. Calata Marconi is one of the most picturesque walkways in the town where you'll find a number of restaurants, gelaterias and shops. The number of businesses operating along Molo Umberto is much fewer, but keep following this path and you'll eventually reach the south-eastern headland that looks back over the town.
Once you locate Salita San Giorgio, you'll start the steady climb towards the Chiesa di San Giorgio, a beautiful church where it is claimed the relics of Saint George, he of dragon-slaying fame, are housed. Continuing past the church you eventually reach Castello Brown, named after a British consul who bought it in 1867. Continue for another half a kilometre along the shaded path to reach the end of the headland at the Portofino Lighthouse with its breathtaking views. Further dazzling views can be had at Punta del Coppo which marks the easternmost point of Portofino's main bay, and one of the best spots for photos.
You can extend your visit to Portofino by taking a walk away from the town, on the road towards Santa Margherita Ligure. From the Chiesa di San Martino, walk along the main road for around 5 minutes to reach the drop dead gorgeous Baia Cannone where you'll find the iconic waterfront buildings. You can also walk some of this way along an elevated path known as the Passeggiata dei Baci ("Pathway of Kisses") to avoid walking next to the cars. if you continue from Baia Cannone for another 15 minutes or so you'll come to the beach resort of Paraggi.
An alternative hike from the centre of Portofino is towards the beautiful Abbey of San Fruttuoso. The two hour hike is fairly gentle and will give you some wonderful panoramas along the way. If you don't wish to walk, you can take a boat from Portofino harbour with a journey time of around 15 minutes.
Accommodation in Portofino is limited, exclusive and you've guessed it: expensive. There are though plenty of options in Santa Margherita Ligure, a bigger seaside town located five kilometres from Portofino. You can travel along the coast road either by car or bus with a journey time of 10 - 15 minutes. It's also possible to reach Portofino by boat from both Santa Margherita Ligure and the slightly further afield Rapallo, another beautiful seaside town with abundant accommodation options.
Comune di Portofino
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Province: Metropolitan City of Genoa
Region: Liguria Population: 369 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2023) Size: 2.6 km² Highlights: Castello Brown, Chiesa di San Giorgio, port Close by: Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo, Camogli, Bogliasco Recommended accommodation: Belmond Hotel Splendido |
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