San Gimignano
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The hill town of San Gimignano is situated within the Province of Siena, a distance of 53 kilometres south-west of Florence, the regional capital of Tuscany.
Surrounded by the undulating valleys of the bucolic Val d'Elsa, San Gimignano is the dictionary definition of a Tuscan hill town with its historic medieval streets interrupted by pretty piazzas and glorious Renaissance buildings. The town was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1990 and described under its epithet San Gimignano delle Belle Torri. |
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The sobriquet is in reference to the town's proliferation of towers which has seen it dubbed the Medieval Manhattan. When visiting the town these days the visual impact of the 14 existing towers is powerful enough but there were at one stage more than 70 of them in what must have been an astonishing sight. The towers had a very basic purpose, to show the wealth of the families that built them and the taller the better with the feuding Ardinghelli and Salvucci the main protagonists of this architectural endeavour.
San Gimignano's origins can be traced back to the time of the Etruscans and there's a greater body of archaeological evidence from the later period of the Romans. The town took its name in 450 AD when the Bishop of Modena, Saint Gimignano is reported to have saved the area from the marauding Attila the Hun. It was the Renaissance period that marked the greatest entry back to life for the town which profited from its close proximity to the Via Francigena. Pilgrims used San Gimignano as an important staging post along their way and this helped to establish the town's initial prosperity before it all came apart at the seams with the Black Death in 1348. The disease had a disastrous effect on the town's economy and its population dwindled thereafter until it came under the rule of Florence in 1353.
The town's charm, its location in the stunning countryside and the UNESCO listing are among the many attributes that make San Gimignano one of Tuscany's foremost visitor attractions. Tourism is booming here and during the summers it's not quite the quiet little Tuscan town you might have been expecting, or probably hoping to find. That said, the larger crowds are understandable considering the wealth of sights within the relatively cramped environs of the town. Away from the summer months there's certainly more of that gentle sleepiness and more space to enjoy the museums and churches.
Standing at the very centre of life in San Gimignano is the medieval square: Piazza della Cisterna, so-named after an historic well at its centre. The Piazza is of a triangular shape and from here you can easily navigate your way to the main sights around the town with a short walk. The first towers were built in San Gimignano in the 12th century and you can see some of the remaining 14 (there were originally 72) from the centre of the square. The Torre del Diavolo springs from the north-east corner of the piazza and is named after the devil because its owner swore blind that it had grown of its own accord one day which could only have been the devil's work. On the western edge of the square are the twin towers of the Ardinghelli family; one of the two famous families that used to vie for supremacy in the town.
The Ardinghelli's main rivals were the Salvucci whose lust for supremacy determined that they should build their towers a bit higher and this they amply achieved on the nearby square of Piazza delle Erbe. The Torri Salvucci tower above the majority of medieval buildings in the square but are dwarfed by the 52 metre high Torre della Rognosa which protrudes from the Palazzo Vecchio del Podestà on the adjacent Piazza del Duomo. The two squares of Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza del Duomo are almost one and the same but separated by a narrow walkway to the right of the town's main religious building.
The Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta is San Gimignano's cathedral, originally built in the 10th century. In a similar way as it's wrong to judge a book by its cover, it's equally presumptuous to assume La Collegiata's understated facade conceals more of the same. Step inside and you will be hit by the power of the vivid frescoes adorning the walls. Highlights within the Basilica complex include a series of 14th century frescoes by Ghirlandaio in the beautiful Cappella di Santa Fina.
Piazza Duomo boasts not only the wonderful Collegiata but also the Palazzo Comunale, home of the town's local governmental administration. Also known as the Palazzo del Popolo, the 13th century edifice rises higher than any other building in San Gimignano with its 54 metre high Torre Grossa. The tower was completed in 1311 and reached the maximum height that had been permitted by the local authorities. You can climb the tower to get the very best views of the town and the local area or explore the internal areas of the Palazzo building which houses numerous museums.
From the top of the Torre Grossa you'll have spotted the area at the western edge of the town centre: the fortress known as the Rocca di Montestaffoli was built in 1353 on the order of the incoming Florentine rulers as a way of keeping their newly-acquired citizens in check. The hillside fortress is surrounded by a garden and offers an alternative set of panoramic views for anyone who may wish to avoid climbing the tower. There are in fact several panoramic viewpoints around the town with a notable one to the south of Piazza della Cisterna.
San Gimignano is listed not only by UNESCO but also by two Italian tourism associations: Touring Club Italia have it as one of their Bandiera Arancione/Orange Flag towns and it's also included in the list of borghi più belli d'Italia (Italy's most beautiful villages). It has rather outgrown the "village" tag and there's still a good deal more to see. A short walk east of Piazza della Cisterna on Via del Castello brings you to the Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Ponte, built in 1240 and famous for its 15th century frescoes. There are further wonderful frescoes to be found north of the main piazza by heading up Via San Matteo to Piazza Sant'Agostino. The Convento di Sant'Agostino lies at the quieter, northern end of the town centre and houses the Cappella di San Bartolo.
A system of defensive walls surrounds the town and you can get a better idea of how it looked from the city gates such as Porta San Matteo which lies a short walk west of Piazza Sant'Agostino. Next to the city gate you'll see signs for the Passeggiata della Mura which is a walking trail alongside the walls.
One of the main entry points to the town is via another city gate: Porta San Giovanni which lies at the southern end of San Gimignano. If you enter the town at this point you can walk up the narrow street of Via San Giovanni and find a former church on the right hand side: the Chiesa di San Francesco which is now a shop selling the local wine: Vernaccia. At the back of the shop is a small garden from where you can get some more great views of the local landscape. The wine is an important part of the town's culture and it's sold in numerous outlets around the medieval streets with mist vendors encouraging you to try some before you buy.
Blessed as it is with many great attributes, San Gimignano cannot name a train station among them. There are local buses available which will take you to Siena in around an hour and a quarter but a car is certainly such more advantageous. It's important to allow sufficient time to visit the town as well; it's small but it's not one of those towns where you can just amble around for a few hours before leaving and manage to see everything. In order to do it justice it really requires a whole day. It's also much better to visit outside of the really busy months of summer when it attracts its greatest number of visitors.
If you do have a car there's a great deal to explore in the local area: aside from simply driving around and enjoy the landscapes of the local valley areas, there are some smaller hill towns such as Certaldo which is directly to the north of San Gimignano and the home town of Renaissance poet Giovanni Boccaccio. In a direct line south east of San Gimignano are the hill towns of Colle di Val d'Elsa followed by Monteriggioni, two of the finest hill towns in Tuscany but both outdone by the next one beyond them which is Siena. Heading west from San Gimignano is another of Tuscany's most famous towns: Volterra which is similar in scope, size and fascination. Car parking options in San Gimignano are good: at the southern end of the town there's a large car park with barriers where you pay at the end of your visit.
San Gimignano's origins can be traced back to the time of the Etruscans and there's a greater body of archaeological evidence from the later period of the Romans. The town took its name in 450 AD when the Bishop of Modena, Saint Gimignano is reported to have saved the area from the marauding Attila the Hun. It was the Renaissance period that marked the greatest entry back to life for the town which profited from its close proximity to the Via Francigena. Pilgrims used San Gimignano as an important staging post along their way and this helped to establish the town's initial prosperity before it all came apart at the seams with the Black Death in 1348. The disease had a disastrous effect on the town's economy and its population dwindled thereafter until it came under the rule of Florence in 1353.
The town's charm, its location in the stunning countryside and the UNESCO listing are among the many attributes that make San Gimignano one of Tuscany's foremost visitor attractions. Tourism is booming here and during the summers it's not quite the quiet little Tuscan town you might have been expecting, or probably hoping to find. That said, the larger crowds are understandable considering the wealth of sights within the relatively cramped environs of the town. Away from the summer months there's certainly more of that gentle sleepiness and more space to enjoy the museums and churches.
Standing at the very centre of life in San Gimignano is the medieval square: Piazza della Cisterna, so-named after an historic well at its centre. The Piazza is of a triangular shape and from here you can easily navigate your way to the main sights around the town with a short walk. The first towers were built in San Gimignano in the 12th century and you can see some of the remaining 14 (there were originally 72) from the centre of the square. The Torre del Diavolo springs from the north-east corner of the piazza and is named after the devil because its owner swore blind that it had grown of its own accord one day which could only have been the devil's work. On the western edge of the square are the twin towers of the Ardinghelli family; one of the two famous families that used to vie for supremacy in the town.
The Ardinghelli's main rivals were the Salvucci whose lust for supremacy determined that they should build their towers a bit higher and this they amply achieved on the nearby square of Piazza delle Erbe. The Torri Salvucci tower above the majority of medieval buildings in the square but are dwarfed by the 52 metre high Torre della Rognosa which protrudes from the Palazzo Vecchio del Podestà on the adjacent Piazza del Duomo. The two squares of Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza del Duomo are almost one and the same but separated by a narrow walkway to the right of the town's main religious building.
The Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta is San Gimignano's cathedral, originally built in the 10th century. In a similar way as it's wrong to judge a book by its cover, it's equally presumptuous to assume La Collegiata's understated facade conceals more of the same. Step inside and you will be hit by the power of the vivid frescoes adorning the walls. Highlights within the Basilica complex include a series of 14th century frescoes by Ghirlandaio in the beautiful Cappella di Santa Fina.
Piazza Duomo boasts not only the wonderful Collegiata but also the Palazzo Comunale, home of the town's local governmental administration. Also known as the Palazzo del Popolo, the 13th century edifice rises higher than any other building in San Gimignano with its 54 metre high Torre Grossa. The tower was completed in 1311 and reached the maximum height that had been permitted by the local authorities. You can climb the tower to get the very best views of the town and the local area or explore the internal areas of the Palazzo building which houses numerous museums.
From the top of the Torre Grossa you'll have spotted the area at the western edge of the town centre: the fortress known as the Rocca di Montestaffoli was built in 1353 on the order of the incoming Florentine rulers as a way of keeping their newly-acquired citizens in check. The hillside fortress is surrounded by a garden and offers an alternative set of panoramic views for anyone who may wish to avoid climbing the tower. There are in fact several panoramic viewpoints around the town with a notable one to the south of Piazza della Cisterna.
San Gimignano is listed not only by UNESCO but also by two Italian tourism associations: Touring Club Italia have it as one of their Bandiera Arancione/Orange Flag towns and it's also included in the list of borghi più belli d'Italia (Italy's most beautiful villages). It has rather outgrown the "village" tag and there's still a good deal more to see. A short walk east of Piazza della Cisterna on Via del Castello brings you to the Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Ponte, built in 1240 and famous for its 15th century frescoes. There are further wonderful frescoes to be found north of the main piazza by heading up Via San Matteo to Piazza Sant'Agostino. The Convento di Sant'Agostino lies at the quieter, northern end of the town centre and houses the Cappella di San Bartolo.
A system of defensive walls surrounds the town and you can get a better idea of how it looked from the city gates such as Porta San Matteo which lies a short walk west of Piazza Sant'Agostino. Next to the city gate you'll see signs for the Passeggiata della Mura which is a walking trail alongside the walls.
One of the main entry points to the town is via another city gate: Porta San Giovanni which lies at the southern end of San Gimignano. If you enter the town at this point you can walk up the narrow street of Via San Giovanni and find a former church on the right hand side: the Chiesa di San Francesco which is now a shop selling the local wine: Vernaccia. At the back of the shop is a small garden from where you can get some more great views of the local landscape. The wine is an important part of the town's culture and it's sold in numerous outlets around the medieval streets with mist vendors encouraging you to try some before you buy.
Blessed as it is with many great attributes, San Gimignano cannot name a train station among them. There are local buses available which will take you to Siena in around an hour and a quarter but a car is certainly such more advantageous. It's important to allow sufficient time to visit the town as well; it's small but it's not one of those towns where you can just amble around for a few hours before leaving and manage to see everything. In order to do it justice it really requires a whole day. It's also much better to visit outside of the really busy months of summer when it attracts its greatest number of visitors.
If you do have a car there's a great deal to explore in the local area: aside from simply driving around and enjoy the landscapes of the local valley areas, there are some smaller hill towns such as Certaldo which is directly to the north of San Gimignano and the home town of Renaissance poet Giovanni Boccaccio. In a direct line south east of San Gimignano are the hill towns of Colle di Val d'Elsa followed by Monteriggioni, two of the finest hill towns in Tuscany but both outdone by the next one beyond them which is Siena. Heading west from San Gimignano is another of Tuscany's most famous towns: Volterra which is similar in scope, size and fascination. Car parking options in San Gimignano are good: at the southern end of the town there's a large car park with barriers where you pay at the end of your visit.
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Category: Hill Towns of Italy
Region: Tuscany Regional district: Siena Province Population: 7,760 Elevation: 324 metres Close by: Colle di Val d'Elsa, Certaldo, Volterra, Val d'Elsa Recommended accommodation: Hotel Bel Soggiorno |
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