Pianosa
By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 21 January 2024
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The quirky island of Pianosa belongs to the Tuscan Archipelago (Arcipelago Toscano) and is situated in the Tyrrhenian Sea.
To its north lies the fellow Tuscan island of Elba and to its west, the larger and French-owned Corsica.It measures just a touch over ten square kilometres, making it the fifth largest of the island group. The quirkiness comes from the fact that, pretty though the island is with its vibrant and protected marine life, it was once, in its entirety, a maximum security prison. |
Among its reluctant guests over the years have been Mafia lords, political activists and well, the type of prisoners that require maximum security. When you arrive at Pianosa's tiny port you're instantly imbued with a feeling that you're somewhere very different and furthermore, very remote. This is an island with a population of something around 10 inhabitants in total with a notably flat landscape that partially accounts for its name.
As you walk from the jetty to the mainland the first sight you catch hold of is the Forte Teglia, part of the fortified complex that was built to control the prisoners, along with the adjoining Palazzo della Specola, all part of the same complex. It's interesting to explore these areas that were abandoned when the prison closed in 2011. From there you can wander across to the prison courtyard and its high walls although beyond this is a no-go area unless you're with an official guide to take you around.
Aside from the prison buildings, the main purpose of a visit to Pianosa is to enjoy its beach: Cala Giovanna. Up until this point you've mainly read about incarceration but the colour of the water at the beach is spectacular. This, along with curiosity is the main purpose for a visit to Pianosa as you'll find a lot more space on this beach than you will in some of the more famous locations in Elba, particularly during the summer months.
I wandered around as much of the rest of the island as I could without straying into the restricted zone and came across the residential area with the few houses therein a curious sight. Back towards the port there's a tourist office and also a bar restaurant where meals are served on a set menu basis.
As you walk from the jetty to the mainland the first sight you catch hold of is the Forte Teglia, part of the fortified complex that was built to control the prisoners, along with the adjoining Palazzo della Specola, all part of the same complex. It's interesting to explore these areas that were abandoned when the prison closed in 2011. From there you can wander across to the prison courtyard and its high walls although beyond this is a no-go area unless you're with an official guide to take you around.
Aside from the prison buildings, the main purpose of a visit to Pianosa is to enjoy its beach: Cala Giovanna. Up until this point you've mainly read about incarceration but the colour of the water at the beach is spectacular. This, along with curiosity is the main purpose for a visit to Pianosa as you'll find a lot more space on this beach than you will in some of the more famous locations in Elba, particularly during the summer months.
I wandered around as much of the rest of the island as I could without straying into the restricted zone and came across the residential area with the few houses therein a curious sight. Back towards the port there's a tourist office and also a bar restaurant where meals are served on a set menu basis.
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Located within the Tuscan Archipelago, Pianosa is a secluded island that boasts a unique blend of serene landscapes, rich history, and captivating marine life. With its pristine shores, archaeological sites, and preserved ecosystems, Pianosa offers travelers an off-the-beaten-path escape into both natural beauty and historical intrigue.
History
Pianosa's history dates back to ancient times, with evidence of Etruscan and Roman settlements on the island. It served various purposes throughout history, including as a Roman penal colony and a monastery in the Middle Ages. During the 20th century, Pianosa was used as a high-security prison. Today, the island is part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park.
Highlights and nearby attractions
- Grotta del Gatto: This sea cave, named after a local legend, features stunning rock formations and is accessible by boat tours, allowing visitors to explore its enchanting beauty.
- Archaeological Site: The island features well-preserved Roman ruins, including the remains of a villa and ancient structures, providing a glimpse into Pianosa's historical past.
- Cala Giovanna Beach: A secluded bay with turquoise waters and fine white sand, Cala Giovanna is a serene spot for swimming and relaxation.
Visitor information
- Access: Due to its status as a protected area, access to Pianosa is regulated and limited. Visitors must obtain permits and join guided tours to explore the island.
- Transportation: Ferries connect Pianosa to the mainland and other nearby islands. On the island, guided tours and walking are the primary means of exploration.
- Guided Tours: Guided tours are essential for experiencing Pianosa's attractions and learning about its history, nature, and conservation efforts.
- Wildlife and Marine Life: Pianosa's waters are rich in marine life, making it a prime location for snorkeling and scuba diving, allowing visitors to discover its underwater treasures.
- Conservation: As part of a national park, Pianosa is dedicated to preserving its ecosystems and historical heritage. Visitors are encouraged to respect the environment and adhere to conservation guidelines.
Isola di Pianosa
Province: Livorno
Region: Tuscany Population: 10 Size: 10.25 km² Highlights: Spiaggia di Cala Giovanna, old prison Recommended accommodation: Marina Garden Hotel (Elba) |
Pianosa Travel
The shortest sea route to Pianosa is via the island of Elba with ferries leaving from the port of Rio Marina and private excursions from various ports including Marina di Campo. Journey times from Elba vary from an hour to an hour and a half depending on the departure port and type of boat. There are further crossings available directly from the Tuscan mainland; from the port of Piombino it's a three hour ferry journey directly to Pianosa.
Arrival port: Pianosa
Journey time from Elba: 1 hour 30 minutes Distance from nearest mainland port: 68 km |