Enna
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By Dion Protani
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Latest update: 23 October 2023
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The city of Enna is the capital city of the Province of Enna with a population of 27,004 inhabitants.
Standing at an elevation of 931 metres above sea level, it covers a total area of 357 km² and lies 136 kilometres south east of Palermo, the regional capital of Sicily. One of the oldest cities in Italy with traces of life as far back as 1200 BC, Enna is also the highest provincial capital in Italy and it is to that height that the city owes much of its success and longevity. |
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Hilltop fortress
With its hilltop location, Enna is a natural fortress in an almost insurmountable position, I use the word "almost" advisedly, as the city's defences have been breached over the years; notably in 859 when Muslim troops, desperate for a breakthrough after a long siege, decided to enter the city through its sewers (you have to think they were really desperate). Perhaps partly due to that particular trauma and as an act of revenge, 8,000 of the city's citizens were subsequently massacred by the invaders.
Enna's geographical location at the heart of Sicily
Enna is very much off the typical tourist trail but this is perhaps its greatest attraction, a glimpse into the real Sicily away from the beach resorts on the coast. A geographical quirk means that Enna is just about as far away as you can get from the sea in Sicily, but one of the most convenient places from which to reach any of the coastal areas.
It straddles the main motorway that runs from Catania on the east coast, across Sicily's interior to the north coast, roughly equidistant between the two. So central is Enna's position, that if you consult a Google map, you'll see it nestled very closely to the map location of the word "Sicilia" itself.
It straddles the main motorway that runs from Catania on the east coast, across Sicily's interior to the north coast, roughly equidistant between the two. So central is Enna's position, that if you consult a Google map, you'll see it nestled very closely to the map location of the word "Sicilia" itself.
Greek myths and legends
As with history in general, the further back you go, the hazier the details become until they enter the realms of myth and legend. Enna and its surrounding area are full of both; at its extreme eastern tip lies a craggy outcrop that was purportedly a 5th century BC temple called the Rocca di Cerere, in honour of Demeter, the Greek goddess of harvest and fertility. Further legends abound that nearby Lake Pergusa was the location where Persephone passed into the underworld of Hades.
Exploring the city centre's sights
With its strategic position at the heart of Sicily, Enna has been the subject of countless invasions and ruled in turn by Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Muslims and Normans, but the city's main sight is the 13th century Castello di Lombardia, built by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II.
The castle stands just a short distance inland from the Rocca di Cerere at the top of the centro storico (historic centre). You can stroll around the castle grounds and climb one of its towers, the Torre Pisana to get one of the best views of the city and the surrounding landscape of rolling hills.
You could argue the view is even better from another tower: the Torre di Federico II, which lies at the western end of Enna, and provides a sprawling panorama of the city and the castle itself in the distance. The Torre di Federico is quite a long walk from the castle at around 3 kilometres away but worth the effort, especially so if you have a car.
The castle stands just a short distance inland from the Rocca di Cerere at the top of the centro storico (historic centre). You can stroll around the castle grounds and climb one of its towers, the Torre Pisana to get one of the best views of the city and the surrounding landscape of rolling hills.
You could argue the view is even better from another tower: the Torre di Federico II, which lies at the western end of Enna, and provides a sprawling panorama of the city and the castle itself in the distance. The Torre di Federico is quite a long walk from the castle at around 3 kilometres away but worth the effort, especially so if you have a car.
Along the main artery: Via Roma
From the piazza in front of the castle you can stroll down Via Roma, the main artery that runs through the city centre, and eventually reach the 14th century Enna Cathedral with its Baroque facade. On either side of Via Roma and the city centre in general, the architecture varies dramatically from the ancient through to the medieval and finally to modern times with the clock tower of the Prefettura di Enna on Piazza Garibaldi particularly prominent.
Towards the bottom of Via Roma lies the main square in the city: Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. The tree-lined square is edged by cafes and restaurants while in one corner, it leads on to another attractive square. Piazza Crispi is quite small but has a park at its centre and best of all, an incredible view across to the neighbouring hill town of Calascibetta.
Towards the bottom of Via Roma lies the main square in the city: Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. The tree-lined square is edged by cafes and restaurants while in one corner, it leads on to another attractive square. Piazza Crispi is quite small but has a park at its centre and best of all, an incredible view across to the neighbouring hill town of Calascibetta.
Comune di Enna
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Province: Enna
Region: Sicily Population: 26,037 (source: ISTAT 1 January 2022) Size: 357 km² Elevation: 931 metres Highlights: Castello di Lombardia, Rocca di Cerere, Cathedral Close by: Calascibetta, Caltanissetta, Piazza Armerina, Leonforte Recommended accommodation: Grand Hotel del Lago (7 km) |
Enna Travel
Situated as it is, more than 900 metres above sea level on a hill top, it's unsurprising that Enna's train station is located out of town. It lies 3 kilometres to the north of the city, close to the motorway in the valley plain between Enna and Calascibetta. From there it's really not practical to walk but there are buses and taxis available. The main train route from Enna is to Caltanissetta with a journey time of 31 minutes. You can also head east towards the coast, reaching Catania in an hour and 27 minutes, or north west to Palermo in 2 hours, stopping along the way at the port town of Termini Imerese (1 hour 35 minutes).
The most convenient airport for Enna is Catania Airport which is a 58 minute drive away (83 km), while Palermo Airport is a possible alternative, albeit an hour further away (1 hour 58 minutes/167 km).
The hills around Enna are awash with fascinating towns, villages and archeological sites. Chief among the latter is the Villa Romana del Casale, a UNESCO World Heritage Site close to the town of Piazza Armerina which is worth a visit in its own right. North East of Enna is a feast of historic towns including Leonforte, Agira, Nicosia, Troina, and at the centre of them all, a personal favourite of mine: Gagliano Castelferrato.
The recommended accommodation for Enna is the Grand Hotel del Lago which lies next to Lake Pergusa (which probably isn't the gateway to Hades), seven kilometres from the city centre.
The most convenient airport for Enna is Catania Airport which is a 58 minute drive away (83 km), while Palermo Airport is a possible alternative, albeit an hour further away (1 hour 58 minutes/167 km).
The hills around Enna are awash with fascinating towns, villages and archeological sites. Chief among the latter is the Villa Romana del Casale, a UNESCO World Heritage Site close to the town of Piazza Armerina which is worth a visit in its own right. North East of Enna is a feast of historic towns including Leonforte, Agira, Nicosia, Troina, and at the centre of them all, a personal favourite of mine: Gagliano Castelferrato.
The recommended accommodation for Enna is the Grand Hotel del Lago which lies next to Lake Pergusa (which probably isn't the gateway to Hades), seven kilometres from the city centre.
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Public transport: train station 3 km from centre, local buses
By train: Caltanissetta - 31 minutes, Catania - 1 hour 27 minutes |
By car: Caltanissetta - 40' (35 km), Catania - 1 hour 9' (85 km)
Fly to: Catania Airport - 58 minutes by car - (83 km) |
